Sunday, 24 October 2010

How to sew an exposed zipper


  

Exposed zippers have been quite popular lately, so I decided to make a tutorial on how to sew them. You will need an unfinished garment, a (metal) zipper and some fusible interfacing.


1. Iron 2.5 cm wide fusible interfacing to the right side of both zipper seam allowances. The interfacing should be 0.5 cm shorter than the full length of the zipper. Mark a line, where the zipper ends.

 

2. Staystitch  (length of a stitch is approximately 1.8-1.9 mm) along the edge, 1.9 cm wide. When you come to the drawn line, turn the fabric for 90 degrees and sew off the edge.


3. With the right sides together, stitch the seam below the zipper opening, 1.5 cm wide.


 4. Cut a notch diagonally into the seam allowances of the zipper base, but be careful not to cut the staystitching. I recommend you to cut into each seam allowance separately.


5. Fold and press the triangles along the staystitching to the wrong side of the seam allowances below the zipper.


6. Press open the seam allowances below the zipper opening.


 7. Turn the zipper seam allowances to the right side along the staystitching and press.


8. Place the zipper on the right side of the fabric. Make sure that the zipper teeth are not covered with the fabric on the wrong side. Fold the raw ends of the zipper under the zipper and pin. Baste the zipper to the seam allowances only, 1 mm away from the teeth.

 

9. Use a zipper foot and stitch the zipper to the seam allowances along the basting, 1 mm away from the teeth, on both sides. Don't forget to backstitch. Use a thread in the same colour as the zipper tape (I used green for you to see the stitching). Remove the basting thread.


10. Trim the seam allowances, so they do not extend beyond the zipper tape.


 11. Edgestitch the zipper in place from top to bottom on one side, sew across the zipper base to secure, and edgestitch from bottom to the top on the other side of the zipper.


12. Finished!


4 comments:

  1. Super! Me veseli, da najdemo tudi v Sloveniji šiviljske zanesenjake (ni nas toliko ...). V glavnem, jaz sem šele začela, tako da sem čisto zaresna taprava začetnica in mi je vse zelo zanimivo, tako da se že veselim naslednjih objav :) Imam pa vprašanje: kje lahko dobim kako luštno blago? V Ljubljani je sicer ne tako davno odprt Svet metraže, ampak pri vzorcih so še vedno blazno klasični. Ali se lahko npr. blago od Anne Marie Horner ali pa kaj podobnega samo naroči ali ga ima kakšna trgovina? LP!

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  2. Pravpzaprav pri nas še nisem našla posebej lepega blaga. Če že, je bilo ekstra drago. Ogromno izbire imajo sicer v Gramatexu v Begunjah na Gorenjskem, ampak se mi zdi, da so cene malo višje kot običajno. V Svetu metraže pa imajo ravnokar popust, če vzameš njihovo kartico ugodnosti. Ne vem pa, če se da pri nas dobiti blago Hornerjeve, Butlerjeve ipd. Mislim, da se kar splača naročiti preko interneta, še posebej, če naročaš iz EU in s kakšno prijateljico, da si delita stroške poštnine.

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  3. Hi there, you posted this ages ago but thank you - I used your tutorial for a dress for my daughter and it was fabulous, easy to follow and very accurate.
    http://and-so-i-sew.blogspot.com.au/2013/05/unless.html

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