Exposed zippers have been quite popular lately, so I decided to make a tutorial on how to sew them. You will need an unfinished garment, a (metal) zipper and some fusible interfacing.
1. Iron 2.5 cm wide fusible interfacing to the right side of both zipper seam allowances. The interfacing should be 0.5 cm shorter than the full length of the zipper. Mark a line, where the zipper ends.
2. Staystitch (length of a stitch is approximately 1.8-1.9 mm) along the edge, 1.9 cm wide. When you come to the drawn line, turn the fabric for 90 degrees and sew off the edge.
3. With the right sides together, stitch the seam below the zipper opening, 1.5 cm wide.
4. Cut a notch diagonally into the seam allowances of the zipper base, but be careful not to cut the staystitching. I recommend you to cut into each seam allowance separately.
5. Fold and press the triangles along the staystitching to the wrong side of the seam allowances below the zipper.
6. Press open the seam allowances below the zipper opening.
7. Turn the zipper seam allowances to the right side along the staystitching and press.
8. Place the zipper on the right side of the fabric. Make sure that the zipper teeth are not covered with the fabric on the wrong side. Fold the raw ends of the zipper under the zipper and pin. Baste the zipper to the seam allowances only, 1 mm away from the teeth.
9. Use a zipper foot and stitch the zipper to the seam allowances along the basting, 1 mm away from the teeth, on both sides. Don't forget to backstitch. Use a thread in the same colour as the zipper tape (I used green for you to see the stitching). Remove the basting thread.
10. Trim the seam allowances, so they do not extend beyond the zipper tape.
11. Edgestitch the zipper in place from top to bottom on one side, sew across the zipper base to secure, and edgestitch from bottom to the top on the other side of the zipper.