Coat construction

I want a warm coat, so I did a little research on coat/jacket construction. There are 5 different fabric layers, each one has it's own purpose. Usually, 3 or 4 of them are used.

1. shell: the outer layer

- fashion fabric

2. underlining: reinforces open weaves, prevents transparency and adds support

- broadcloth, muslin, fine cotton batiste, china silk, cotton/silk batiste blend, cotton flannel, fusible interfacing

Underlining is stitched 1.3 cm (1/2 inch) wide to the shell prior to sewing and acts as a single layer. The seam allowances of the underlining are then trimmed to the stitched line to prevent bulk. If you want extra support or to protect critical areas that will receive a lot of stress from being bent and sat on (elbows, rumps), hand baste the underlining to the body of the shell parallel to the grain of the fabric.

If you use fusible interfacing as an underlining, fuse it to the shell proir to sewing. Seam allowances are optional.

Tip: cotton flannel not only adds support, but also insulates. That means you can omit the interlining, but still have a warm garment.

3. interfacing: gives support and shape to e.g. collars, lapels, facing, cuffs, ... 

- fusible/nonfusible interfacing

It is fused/hand basted directly to the shell. Seam allowance is required for nonfusible interfacing and optional for fusible interfacing.

Tip: when a garment is underlined, interfacing may not be necessary, because both the garment and the facing sections are underlined. So the two layers of underlining between the garment and the facing provide an adequate interfacing. Or if I put it like that: the pattern pieces that are interfaced, don't have to be underlined.

4. interlining: adds insulation

- cotton flannel, lambswool interlining, lightweight thinsulate, thin microfleece, chamois

It is made from the lining pattern; collars, pockets, double-breasted section, belts etc. are not interlined.

Interlining is stitched 1.3 cm (1/2 inch) wide to the lining individually and acts as a single layer. The seam allowances of the interlining are then trimmed to the stitched line to prevent bulk.

5. lining: a finishing layer that covers the inside construction of the coat

- satin, tafetta, twill, jacquard, bemberg rayon, silk, polyester, acetate, flannel back satin

Tip: flannel satin serves both as a lining and adds insulation. That means you can omit the interlining, but still have a warm garment.

I hope this helps. ;)

I am slowly making progress on my coat. The fabric is cut, now I have to put the pieces together. In the next post I will be showing you how to underline and interface the garment.

Have a nice day!